Assistance please .. I'm trying to fit a quickshifter
#16
The quikshifter is a bit of a pain in the arse actually.If you set the kill time less than about 65ms you don,t often get an fi light.When the fi light flashes the bike must change maps or something because the throttle becomes snatchy.But if you set the kill time at 65ms or less you risk knocking the edges off the dogs in second gear.I don,t know the relevance of my dramas to other models but may seek out an ignition cut instead of a fuel cut.When i was racing the fi light did'nt seem to slow the bike down or alter the airfuel,i just rode my bike on a country ride today and noticed the snatchy throttle today when the fi light showed up.The reason they specify the linear sensor for the busa is because on standard footpegs the push or pull sensors don,t fit the stock rearset rod.They fit aftermarket though.Another option is to get the push button option on the left hand handlebar.This way you will preload the shifter and push the button to activate the kill time in response to your reaction to a shift light.
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#17
Well its all good news so far,

Thanx to abusa, the info was good, and it's what I've applied.

I managed to get a hold of the 4-102 pressure tensioner switch and that aforementioned male/male m6 push rod. ****4050 etc rod

Everything was a fairly easy fit. Was simply a matter of turn the box gear lever forward a bit to make a bit of room for the assembly. (I rotated it as far as the locking bolt is vertical) , and I cut the adjustment threads in half ( was too long the rod ).
Install the 2 retaining nuts from the original rod and hey presto..

I have a pic of the finished article. I took a few along the way to show the progress how too DIY thing.

The only thing i have noticed is yes the FI light comes on after using it and doesnt clear until you restart the bike. I set me kill time too 85 and its certainly is a different driving experience...automatic busa anyone, thats what it feels like...

Ill mess about with it some more and see if i can come up with an answer on the FI coming on
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#18
When the fi light flashes it reverts to limp mode which is the clutch in ignition and fuel map which makes less power which i,ve proved on the dyno.I took the bike out to the drags and set my shift rpm at 10800 on one run and sure enough it cut out at 10400 which is the clutch in rev limit so on that run it wouldn,t change gears from 2-3 after the 1-2 shift acivated the fi light fault.
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#19
Punchy Wrote:Well its all good news so far,

Thanx to abusa, the info was good, and it's what I've applied.

I managed to get a hold of the 4-102 pressure tensioner switch and that aforementioned male/male m6 push rod. ****4050 etc rod

Everything was a fairly easy fit. Was simply a matter of turn the box gear lever forward a bit to make a bit of room for the assembly. (I rotated it as far as the locking bolt is vertical) , and I cut the adjustment threads in half ( was too long the rod ).
Install the 2 retaining nuts from the original rod and hey presto..

I have a pic of the finished article. I took a few along the way to show the progress how too DIY thing.

The only thing i have noticed is yes the FI light comes on after using it and doesnt clear until you restart the bike. I set me kill time too 85 and its certainly is a different driving experience...automatic busa anyone, thats what it feels like...

Ill mess about with it some more and see if i can come up with an answer on the FI coming on


Punchy,

If thats the finished position you have shown its not ideal, with the splined part that far foward I'm surprised that it even changes gear...you'll end up with problems later on.

Leonard.
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#20
Legend Wrote:
Punchy Wrote:Well its all good news so far,

Thanx to abusa, the info was good, and it's what I've applied.

I managed to get a hold of the 4-102 pressure tensioner switch and that aforementioned male/male m6 push rod. ****4050 etc rod

Everything was a fairly easy fit. Was simply a matter of turn the box gear lever forward a bit to make a bit of room for the assembly. (I rotated it as far as the locking bolt is vertical) , and I cut the adjustment threads in half ( was too long the rod ).
Install the 2 retaining nuts from the original rod and hey presto..

I have a pic of the finished article. I took a few along the way to show the progress how too DIY thing.

The only thing i have noticed is yes the FI light comes on after using it and doesnt clear until you restart the bike. I set me kill time too 85 and its certainly is a different driving experience...automatic busa anyone, thats what it feels like...

Ill mess about with it some more and see if i can come up with an answer on the FI coming on


Punchy,

If thats the finished position you have shown its not ideal, with the splined part that far foward I'm surprised that it even changes gear...you'll end up with problems later on.

Leonard.

That's why Dynojet use the Linear Sensor on Busa's.
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