Removing Camshaft Journal Holders

[steventh]

WTF!

Just checked my camshaft clearence (all within spec at 35000k) and stripped one of the headcover bolts (even though used a torque wrench at 10lb /ft) - @@#$@% So what took about an hour has now taken 4.

I need to take remove one of the camshaft journal holders and on loosening the bolts the LHS of the cam was lifting out of the bearing. i assume this is because the cam chain still had tension at the other end.

The manual doesn't mention this happening.

Any hints on how to stop it happening - is it simply looseing the cam chain - if so how is this done with the hydraulic tensioners?

Im not rebuilding- just removing the top holder so i can retap the ruined thread without getting shit in the engine.

Also on reassembly the manual doesn't mention using locktight on the journal holder bolts. I would have thought it was necessary?

thanks in advance for any help.

Cheers
steven

[Gnarbunkle99]

You have to remove the banjo fitting that supplies oil to the tensioner then remove 2 allen head bolts, then withdraw the tensioner. Its tight in there trying to get the allen bolts out. There is a 1 way ratchet device on the tensioner that alows it to take up only. How far this is out givs you an idea of how stretchd the chain and how worn the chain guides may be.
Valve springs will also cause th cam lift that you describe, you have to tighten all the cap bolts an even number of turns each in a criss cross pattern or risk damage, painfully slow with motor insitu.
When you put the tensioner back in, to readjust it to length you have to turn the motor opposite to normal rotation to put the cam chain slack on the cam chain adjustor side. Either by turning the RHS crankshaft end bolt anticlockwise thru the inspection cover or maybe even by grabbing your back wheel and turn it backward. The unusual sound the motor makes is the starter 1 way clutch engaging and driving th starter eqpt. Lot easier to hand turn if your spark plugs are out.

[spamanglenn]

Enjoy.

[Maj]

Probably the easiest way will be to release the nut,spring and pin in the centre of the tensioner so it doesn't ratchet up any tighter, put it on tdc by the marks on the crank and no1 on the exhaust cam is flush with the gasket surface at the front of the head, ZIP TIE the cam sprockets to the chain then remove the damaged cam bearings/cam holder,
when reinstalling be sure the cam is located properly on the steel guide under the ball bearing, or you will crack the newly repaired piece
use the service manual to check installation of the cam bearings, and don't loose the 2 locator tubes
when its bolted back down and done with an INCH /Pound tensioner or just firm recheck cam timing then reinstall the tensioner spring centre pin and retaining bolt ,release zip ties and fit the cam cover.

[Taubusa]

Sounds like a job for a mechanic

[spamanglenn]

id recheck cam timng after you,ve fitted the cam chain tensioner,not before,it will be different.like maj said though tdc has the least amount of lobes lifting valves.just rereading your post i,d just rotate the motor so the lobes nearest the holder your removing arent facing down pushing against the valve spring.if it still comes up do as the boys have described.

[BUSGO]

Damm Steven. I hope this doesn't hold you up for next weekend mate.

[steventh]

Hi Busgo

Ironically, I was checking it out specifically for the Nymboidia ride - ah well.

I should be Ok. If I dont get it back together I will come up on my other bike.

Cheers

Steven

[Gnarbunkle99]

That RHS crank bolt cover can also seize, have a spare one if it looks like it needs forcing to get out, mine stripped out and I had to employ varying degrees of unmentionable butchey to get it out.

[spamanglenn]

that crank inspection cover is definately made of cheese.

[Gnarbunkle99]

Previous owner had a Harley Dealer do a service/valve clearance check on it according to logbook, say no more. Some anti-sieze on the thread and spec torque holds it in place snugly against the o-ring, harley torque welds it together.

[steventh]

Folks,

Thanks for advice.

Finally got it all together and running. Unfortunately i had already loosened the journal holder before the advice on using cable ties so had to reset the chain and sprocket. Very fiddly with the engine still in the bike but no big deal.

The hardest part was tightening the bolts. Once you strip one aluminium thread you become very wary about doing it again even with using a torque wrench.

The time involved in rectifying this small error more than justifies getting a good quality torque wrench or maybe a small one for light loads because it is soooo easy to strip aluminium threads

Cheers

steven

[spamanglenn]

onya dude,you stuck your big toe into the world of engine work in the frame and survived.dialling the exhaust cam in with adjustable cam gears whilst the motor is still in the frame is your next challenge.

[jessie928]

what size torque wrench were you using? it was probably WAY off!
never use shit torque wrenches for light settings and alloy.

in any case, a helicoil will be much better than origional alloy threads.
Alot of people helicoil all bolts in alloy cases way before they have a chance to strip them.

Jes