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My busa is coming up to the 14 year mark come next Feb. So decided it was high time to change the fluid in the damper thats never ever been done.
Tried removing damper by just removing under nose tray, but no go was just too hard reaching and getting it out. So off comes the mirrors, both side panels, dash surrounds, now i can attack the nose cone. Pull off nice and gently, balance the whole basta on the front wheel fender with cloth between to prevent any scratching. Hold nose once removed, now to disconnect the cables whilst balancing said basta on fender assisted by ones knee to prevent it crashing to ground, bit tricky nice and easy is the way to go.
Finally easy removal of damper, need extra size 14 spanner to lock the top end of Right side bolt whilst unscrewing the bottom of it. Now on to the fun bit.
Open special security torx screw for bleeding using a star T10H. Was surprised fluid was a pretty clean yellow and with no smell as some have mentioned in the past years. Once every drop is out now to the re-fill, the worst part of the job.
I know from past comments unit has to be submerged but that requires more fluid then I was prepared for. I just bought a 1 litre Motul fork oil. Re fluids, some have mentioned just using auto oil but I reckon its hydraulic and the right fluid ought to be used. Some have mentioned about going 'heavy' viscosity and Motul Fork oil came 2.5, 5 light, 10, 15 and 20. I was warned by dealer not to go to heavy after looking at the 10 and 15, he reckoned it was more for older models. So I stuck with the 5. Now only having the 1 litre I tried filling and bleeding in a tall glass but no matter how many hours and strokes I wasnt convinced all the air was out, in no small measure that the refill hole was facing down. Fark it. Off to get another litre.
Now to find the right contained to hold 2 litres. 1.25 litre drink bottles cut off along the length...nah no good wont allow enough room for stroking (sounds familiar?). Used a 5 litre oil container cut in half along the length and had a reasonable container. Now fully submerged in 2 litres of fork oil with gentle strokes it was now doing the job the way it should be. Oh get a pair of rubber gloves, didnt think would be to good or healthy for hand to be submerged in that stuff for a period of time. Eventually got to the stage of no more bubbles and was satisfied it was 99.9% free of air. You see as you stroke you feel as if it has some sand in it - theyre microscopic air bubbles. So even when your done you might feel something at the top end of full stroke but no more bubbles will come out. Now to screw the screw back in whilst submerged. Can be a bit of a basta coz she dont wanna go in with the plastic washer/o-ring set on top of the hole. So you might have to pre-screw in said washer prior to submerging.
When all done, cleaned up, it feels good. Theres more resistance there then you would have thought. So No.5 is enough. Now assemble all back on bike. 1 screw to watch out for is the bottom dash surround locking screw, it has a taller shoulder then the rest and needs to go into that spot and not accidentally used as one of the fairing bolts.
There you have it. Now I am left with almost 2 litres of new fork oil (barely 100ml. gets used). So if anyone living close by to 3165 wants to pick up 2 litres for $20 (cost me $42), drop me a line. Otherwise go "enjoy" the job.
Tried removing damper by just removing under nose tray, but no go was just too hard reaching and getting it out. So off comes the mirrors, both side panels, dash surrounds, now i can attack the nose cone. Pull off nice and gently, balance the whole basta on the front wheel fender with cloth between to prevent any scratching. Hold nose once removed, now to disconnect the cables whilst balancing said basta on fender assisted by ones knee to prevent it crashing to ground, bit tricky nice and easy is the way to go.
Finally easy removal of damper, need extra size 14 spanner to lock the top end of Right side bolt whilst unscrewing the bottom of it. Now on to the fun bit.
Open special security torx screw for bleeding using a star T10H. Was surprised fluid was a pretty clean yellow and with no smell as some have mentioned in the past years. Once every drop is out now to the re-fill, the worst part of the job.
I know from past comments unit has to be submerged but that requires more fluid then I was prepared for. I just bought a 1 litre Motul fork oil. Re fluids, some have mentioned just using auto oil but I reckon its hydraulic and the right fluid ought to be used. Some have mentioned about going 'heavy' viscosity and Motul Fork oil came 2.5, 5 light, 10, 15 and 20. I was warned by dealer not to go to heavy after looking at the 10 and 15, he reckoned it was more for older models. So I stuck with the 5. Now only having the 1 litre I tried filling and bleeding in a tall glass but no matter how many hours and strokes I wasnt convinced all the air was out, in no small measure that the refill hole was facing down. Fark it. Off to get another litre.
Now to find the right contained to hold 2 litres. 1.25 litre drink bottles cut off along the length...nah no good wont allow enough room for stroking (sounds familiar?). Used a 5 litre oil container cut in half along the length and had a reasonable container. Now fully submerged in 2 litres of fork oil with gentle strokes it was now doing the job the way it should be. Oh get a pair of rubber gloves, didnt think would be to good or healthy for hand to be submerged in that stuff for a period of time. Eventually got to the stage of no more bubbles and was satisfied it was 99.9% free of air. You see as you stroke you feel as if it has some sand in it - theyre microscopic air bubbles. So even when your done you might feel something at the top end of full stroke but no more bubbles will come out. Now to screw the screw back in whilst submerged. Can be a bit of a basta coz she dont wanna go in with the plastic washer/o-ring set on top of the hole. So you might have to pre-screw in said washer prior to submerging.
When all done, cleaned up, it feels good. Theres more resistance there then you would have thought. So No.5 is enough. Now assemble all back on bike. 1 screw to watch out for is the bottom dash surround locking screw, it has a taller shoulder then the rest and needs to go into that spot and not accidentally used as one of the fairing bolts.
There you have it. Now I am left with almost 2 litres of new fork oil (barely 100ml. gets used). So if anyone living close by to 3165 wants to pick up 2 litres for $20 (cost me $42), drop me a line. Otherwise go "enjoy" the job.
![[Image: SigPic100.jpg]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/Volvi/SigPic100.jpg)
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