Gen 1 Not Starting

[mungaman]

yeah for sure just leave the seat bolts out & the hump off & go for a ride if F1 is on dash pull up leave running & bridge the plug see if it gives a code

Made own Faulty switch - supercheap 1 x toggle switch $4.00 - climped pins on end - cornect to white box mode , start bike up , F1 light comes up - turn switch on - reading on dash - C92 fuel level sensor. Next step to replace sensor Suzuki quote $250.00 , is there a after market one I can purchase.

[Maj]

Have a close look at the connections between the brown 4 pin plug and the bottom of the tank, esp as someone has been in this area lately that the wires are in good order , had one come off the bottom of the tank before , yellow red, and black white are fuel pump, the other 2 , black green and can't remember the 4th (bk/br ??) are fuel sender

[mungaman]

Have a close look at the connections between the brown 4 pin plug and the bottom of the tank, esp as someone has been in this area lately that the wires are in good order , had one come off the bottom of the tank before , yellow red, and black white are fuel pump, the other 2 , black green and can't remember the 4th (bk/br ??) are fuel sender

Have checked all wiring , all good , replace fuel senor ,old one was a bit rusted, F1 light gone but now have a reading with COO with line not in the middle it say to ajust TP sensor , is it easy to do , Busa fires up and idles no dramas.
Went to take the 04 Busa for a ride , she was misfiring and idleing rough , put new spark plugs in and cleaned K&N filter , Busa idleing smooth again.

[TheShredder]

The line is either at top or bottom of the screen
display. You have to crack the screw on the side of
the throttle bodies & twist the sensor forwards or backwards
till the line is in the centre of the display again.

[mungaman]

The line is either at top or bottom of the screen
display. You have to crack the screw on the side of
the throttle bodies & twist the sensor forwards or backwards
till the line is in the centre of the display again.

Thanks Shredder , will look in to it , I go to Cloncurry tomorrow ,will be another week before I can have a go at it.

[#CAS#]

If you google adjusting Hayabusa TP sensor there is a how to do it vid, it is easy to fix. Hayabusa.org i think have it on their site.
Mine drove me crazy trying to sort it out, it is also a torx head screw, but not a standard one, replace it with a phillips head screw or allen key head to make life easy.

[Maj]

actually unless you have a flat spot or drivability issue i would not change the tps sensor settings
the line at the COO is changed as you adjust idle speed
idle speed is influenced by throttlebody balance, valve clearances , and general running condition of the bike

[mungaman]

actually unless you have a flat spot or drivability issue i would not change the tps sensor settings
the line at the COO is changed as you adjust idle speed
idle speed is influenced by throttlebody balance, valve clearances , and general running condition of the bike

Maj - Did the idle adjustment on the stand no dramas got the dash in right position ,went for a ride around the block ,stop to check things out ,bike stop - check COO - the dash moved to the top again bike wount"nt start push start bike - road home - did the code again , notice when i was turning toggle switch on revs would go up and off the revs would drop. Does that mean the fuel sensor need ajusting or replaceing , were would I purchase one of the tools to adjust sensor , can I replace the screws on the sensor with alan keys heads ones.

[Camel]

COO might be a red herring. There are number of things that could go wrong that won't show up in fault codes.

Start.... at the start.

1. Check your compression pressure.
- without, then with, a squirt of oil to determine whether low pressure is rings/bore and/or valves/clearance.
- Check shim clearances on valves.
2. Check your spark.
- Is it bright, blue?
- Plug condition and clearances.
3. Check your fuel.
- Fuel pressure is critical in a fuel injected engine. Could be regulator, pump, filters (blocked). The pumps run almost continuously. They wear out, particularly if you got a bad dose of fuel or live in WA (that fine iron ore dust gets everywhere). Fuel injectors themselves can stick; fully or partially, particularly if the bike has sat for a while. They also wear out. Pull them out, get them checked/cleaned professionally. Don't be tempted to use a non-specific, non adjustable ultrasonic cleaner, the wrong frequency will wear microscopic patterns, (like ripples on a beach) on your critical parts.

Another interesting point. I had a new pump which jammed not longer after fitting. I pulled it apart and found a chunk of 'varnish' from old fuel had jammed between the rotors - that's how fine the clearances are and shows how long it takes for old varnish to dissolve.

Another point with pumps, the one-way valves also wear out. They allow fuel pressure to bleed back through the pump to the tank. Remember how your Busa will run its pump for a short period and then stop until you hit the starter button. If you haven't hit the starter button and the pressure has bled back via the faulty valve, the bike will be harder to start. Combine that with worn rotors in the pump and you're going to have a bike that is a pig to start.

Camelsy-oh.

[mungaman]

COO might be a red herring. There are number of things that could go wrong that won't show up in fault codes.

Start.... at the start.

1. Check your compression pressure.
- without, then with, a squirt of oil to determine whether low pressure is rings/bore and/or valves/clearance.
- Check shim clearances on valves.
2. Check your spark.
- Is it bright, blue?
- Plug condition and clearances.
3. Check your fuel.
- Fuel pressure is critical in a fuel injected engine. Could be regulator, pump, filters (blocked). The pumps run almost continuously. They wear out, particularly if you got a bad dose of fuel or live in WA (that fine iron ore dust gets everywhere). Fuel injectors themselves can stick; fully or partially, particularly if the bike has sat for a while. They also wear out. Pull them out, get them checked/cleaned professionally. Don't be tempted to use a non-specific, non adjustable ultrasonic cleaner, the wrong frequency will wear microscopic patterns, (like ripples on a beach) on your critical parts.

Another interesting point. I had a new pump which jammed not longer after fitting. I pulled it apart and found a chunk of 'varnish' from old fuel had jammed between the rotors - that's how fine the clearances are and shows how long it takes for old varnish to dissolve.

Another point with pumps, the one-way valves also wear out. They allow fuel pressure to bleed back through the pump to the tank. Remember how your Busa will run its pump for a short period and then stop until you hit the starter button. If you haven't hit the starter button and the pressure has bled back via the faulty valve, the bike will be harder to start. Combine that with worn rotors in the pump and you're going to have a bike that is a pig to start.

Camelsy-oh.

Adjusted the throttle positioner, -COO on stand bike started and idle no dramas ,went for a ride , park bike on stand idleing away then stop, tried to start bike on stand no go , checked - COO all good ,got on bike stand up bike started no dramas , checked -COO when i got home all good. Have replaced Fuel pump, Fuel relay , Fuel sensor in fuel tank , new Fuel hoses ,had fuel tank flush out to remove all rust, have put new spark plugs , compression good ,53,000 kms on clock. Bike starts first hit , idles good ,set about 1100. Is there something simple I,m over looking.