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I'd second Mozzie here. Stick with the original spec oil viscosity. Heavier oil without re-valving will affect the compression and rebound damping and if you live in the area when it gets cold in the mornings the bike will feel like it has no suspension at all untill the oil warms up.
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Sound advice thanks Ile get it changed for the same weight. At what height should the oil be set to.
Ive found that on the shit roads around Kal the front end gets sloppy after riding for a while. I figured that the oil might be foaming/airating or a bit to thin for the type of roads I'm playing on.
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(08-09-2014, 10:08am)Corpsedealer Wrote: Sound advice thanks Ile get it changed for the same weight. At what height should the oil be set to.
Ive found that on the shit roads around Kal the front end gets sloppy after riding for a while. I figured that the oil might be foaming/airating or a bit to thin for the type of roads I'm playing on.
The standard OEM level is 95 mm. I'd go for 85 if your springs are a bit tired to give some more air cushioning. Just make sure there is no air trapped under the piston when measuring the level and it is also a good practice to accurately measure how much you put into each tube to make sure they are both the same and then re-check the level.
If the front gets "sloppy" after a bumpy ride it is because the oil gets hot and thins out a bit. However that should be not much of an issue if you maintain oil change intervals. Most people just forget about it. I'd say two years of bumpy riding is long enough for an oil change.
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Wouldn't the oil level need to be lower with a greater gap to get more air cushioning?
All the info I could find recommended slightly less oil per side say 105mm down from the top of the fork leg. But just kept mine at the standard Suzuki level. Just don't put any more oil than what Suzuki recommend.
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Nope, the oil level is measured from the top of the tube and you need a highier level - more oil in the fork leg so the distance to the top of the fork tube is less (like I suggested 85 mm instead of 95 mm).
Your thinking makes sense only untill you try to follow it up further to see how it affects the operation of the shock. More air in it does not increase the cusioning but decreases it as there is less oil to compress it for a given stroke.
And you can put more oil in the shock quite safely. It is a standard method to stop the shocks bottoming out under heavy braking. In Ohlins for example you can adjust the oil lever by 100 mm. It will give you 160N of air spring at minimum level and well over 500N of air spring at maximum level. Of course the adjustment range on a Busa fork is much less but the principles are exactly the same.
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Yep compression clearance in your forks works the same as in your cylinder, your effectively increasing your compression ratio by moving the level from 95 to 85 ,
not going to affect level road performance much but on hard braking and big bumps it will not bottom out as easily
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