Not the turbo, the other bits

[Roger05]

Howdy all, im sitting here waiting for my new pet snail to arrive (the velocity breed) and I've got to thinking what else may need to be upgraded other than the obvious.

When undergoing a turbo conversion does anyone change the front springs to compensate for the extra forward weight and punishment.

I'm know to miss the next gear on occasions wheeling in 2/3rd ending up with the donut hitting the deck pretty hard at times....

Wheel bearings, worth upgrading to ceramic simply because genuine ones are expensive as hell and i was going to do them any way? Any cons on ceramic? Suggested Australian supplier (insert here😛)

Tyres, without starting a pissing contest. Lets assume a bike has the power and gearing required to reach 350kph would basic Battlax, pilot power ect W rated rings still be safe?

Chain and sprockets, gonna assume all alloy sprockets are out the window. How about a chain with enough strength, any brand/type recommendation would be great.

I'm not building a drag bike but I'd rather get the basics right first time. Happy to take on any other suggestions also.

Cheers in advance Roger

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[Corpsedealer]

[Maj]

agree about the springs, if you need them because of total weight on front or back get them, std suspension setup soon tells you if your out of range if you cant get a good loaded and unloaded sag setting
if you hitting the deck hard from chopping a wheelie you will have more trouble with the family jewels than anything else , i usually short shift if i loose the horizon ,
no need to do anything special with bearings, check them and replace as needed, there available at local bearing supply
Chains, yep find a good one, DID do one and so do Tsubaki, look at the tensile strength and go for the higher numbers in a 530 with o ring , dont over tighten it ,bigger front sprocket helps, you can regear from the rear if you want std ratios,

Main thing you should be doing is finding someone with turbo experiance to tune it ,
What motor mods are you planning ?and what psi

[Roger05]

Cheers guys, i figured the springs would be ok as im only 63kg without gear but i figured it was worth the ask.

Is there any bonus of genuine bearings at $45ea over off the self chrome steel jobbies at CBC?

Maj, ill sus out the DID site and see whats what. Sprockets im thinking 18/40 (i believe this will leave me a touch under the magical 220mph?) as i reckon 19/40 will just be to much of a pig down low. Are basic steel sprockets ie JT ect ok.

As for engine work, boost ect i was gonna discuss that in another thread later on. I've ordered a velocity stage 1 kit so i believe they are set at 6psi. I have been toying with the idea of whipping the head off for some work, decomp, suited blower cams and a bit more puff but im undecided... don't really have the time for ripping engines down atm.

As for tuner.....well i don't know yet, again i was gonna ask at a later date when all the basic bits are done. Had comp conversions recommend to me but i haven't spoken to them yet.

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[Maj]

JT, PBI , there are a few out there that are good.
stock cams are fine, shopping list for motor should include base spacer , you theretically dont need one for 6 psi only but 1mm spacer for 6 psi will increase safety lots and allow for any small boost creep the velocity kit may have (seen 10 out of a 6 psi kit)
and head studs , while its apart a ceramic thermal barrier coating on the piston tops will add more safety again

[Roger05]

JT, PBI , there are a few out there that are good.
stock cams are fine, shopping list for motor should include base spacer , you theretically dont need one for 6 psi only but 1mm spacer for 6 psi will increase safety lots and allow for any small boost creep the velocity kit may have (seen 10 out of a 6 psi kit)
and head studs , while its apart a ceramic thermal barrier coating on the piston tops will add more safety again

Yep head studs were on my list if i decided to open it up. So you have to drop the barrels and run the spacer at the bottom? No other option like a thicker MLS head gasket? (Forgive me all my knowledge is based on modded car engines) the other thing that crossed my mind earlier was adjustable cam gears. So the valve overlap isn't to bad with stock cams that ill be wasting air?

As for the ceramic coat is that the same gear you get extractors, turbos ect done in? If so i can put it on the work account

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[Roger05]

Oh i have a turbo smart v port laying around i was thinking about fitting that to the plenum as well.

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[Maj]

Base spacer is better way of doing it , head gaskets are a very hi load area and you dont want to compromise the gasket by adding more layers (its how they do it with a 1000 as the cyls are part of the cases )

you can use adjustable gears, definitely one option if you used a .080 spacer for higher boost levels , but you can also reset the cam gears timing by rotating the crank gear backward on the spline , because of different numbers of teeth on the crank spline and timing sprocket you get about .9 deg change /tooth , a .080 spacer needs 5 teeth to put it back to std , and std is fine for most street use stg 1 kits
valve overlap is not realy a problem, your limiting factor if you turn the boost up is the turbine housing , the velocity turbo your getting is the same size i run on my 750 Landspeed bike and i have seen exhaust backpressure issues at 25+ psi on that

different ceramic for pistons , but same principal, look at HPC online , they give a good description of what each product does
After loosing some stuff in a bushfire , one thing i found funny was a spare race motor completely devoid of any aluminium , but the ceramic piston top , rings, rod and pin, all lined up in perfect order and i suppose same position, inside the niccasil cyl with studs and copper gasket supporting it , kept the piston top and always intended to send it back