I would appreciate some advice on this Col as I know you advocate mineral oil for the busa. I intend keeping this bike for a while and want to do the best thing for the engine.
My 99 busa has nearly 20000 kms on it (got it second hand with 5000kms) and it has had a mixture of oils put in it, mainly synthetic. As I want to start doing my own oil changes and I would like to know
1) if you still recommend using mineral on an older bike and if so do I need to flush the engine out first (and how do i do that?)
2) and how often do you suggest i change the oil?
Thanks in anticipation
Dave David<i></i>
G'day David,
I've found Pennzoil 10/30 turbo works well if you give it heaps and go on short rides. For more long distance work I would use the 20/50 GT performance. I've found both these seem to work better than the synthetics not only in engine life but in clutch operation.
As for a engine flush, warm your motor up and drop the oil and filter. Refill as specified and run for at least 100 KM. Then do the same again. You should then change your oil and filter at 5000 K intervils. My feelings are to change the filter every time you change the oil. Why contaminate new
Regards Col <i></i>
but Col,
Brocky wouldn't use that 'cause it came out of the ground!
Surely your not saying Brocky (you know.........KIng of the Mountain) would be lying to us?
Say it isn't so............
Peter the phantom puller <i></i>
Who remembers the energy polarizer crystal!!!!
By the way, synthetic base is not born in the test tube. It, just like mineral oil, comes from the filthy dirt. And it may indeed surprise some, that it too comes from the oil well. The main difference is that synthetic first starts off as mineral and spends a bit of time in the test tube "converting" as it were.
Pont is this, 1. Brockie sold his soul a long time ago.
2. Yank crude is good stuff, better than the sardine sperm that you get out of Arabian oil wells. Thats why their product protects better when the additives are expended. Synthetic is good stuff, but deer as poison. You be the judge. I'll vouch for Pensylvania oil, I ran a VF1000FE for 60,000Km over 10 years on that stuff and the cams had hardly a mark on them. That bike like the VF750 had a bad reputation for cam wear.Yes you can believe Col that Penzoil is good.
Best Regards
Chris. <i></i>
Just switched to Penrite mineral & agree with previous post from Col in that my clutch is operating with noticeable improvement.
I think there is a question mark over engine longevity with the synthetics as my car has been run on fish oil for 156,000 (Mazda) & has cam box rattles like a tappety old FJ Holden despite being serviced on time with no exceptions. <i></i>
Ive got 154000ks on my gpz1100 95 model, and I have used shell advance sx because its cheap. I believe that any oil is ok as long as you change it regularly. The only defining factor is cluch operation as mentioned above.
Safeway oil should be fine if you change it every few hundred k's. <i></i>
G'day,
Hmmm, Your point exactly?
Regards Col <i></i>
Suzuki recommend the use of mineral as it eliminates clutch slip in all thier top power machines.If you run synthetic and get slip,try mineral after a good engine cleanout <i></i>
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