Joining Chains--what Method

[gazza414]

Interested in by what method you guys use to join either a new chain or when you remove a link to shorten the tug??

Dedicated Rivetting Tool as sold be RK or DID etc or

with a ball peen hammer or

take it to a dealer <i></i>

[rocket rod 7777]

I used the clip type one,i know some people cringe at these but hey,i've never had one come undone. <i></i>

[gazza414]

Yer Rod, the reason behind the cringing is the issue of clearance on the one side plate , therefore high stress on the pin and bore . Potential for more elongation of the bore and wear.

But hey its good to know that someone has not only tried this but they havent had any probs so far


thanks <i></i>

[rocket rod 7777]

But the side plate is a pressed fit anyway,so i dont think the wear thing is a problem. <i></i>

[gazza414]

Rod, I wasnt aware that you could purchase removable links that have a pressed on side plate ? so how do you then get them off evenly ? and then when you put them back on the side plate is no longer a press on fit? I suppose they arent meant to go on and off.

Which chain manufacturer offers these? <i></i>

[rev 01]

I've used both types & no problems. The yanks use the circlip type a lot.

Currently using the riveted type & used a ball pean hammer with backing to do the job although I'd rather have the proper tool & will get one next sale time

For info, the RK takasago links are slightly softer & make the job a lot easier. <i></i>

[GDYUP]

RK Takasogo links?:">
We definatley didn't use that one on my first chain Rev!
The old line "When I nod my Head You Hit it", got a real work out that day. That was hard yakka with the ball peen hammer and the steel block.
Much easier to get it done by a shop with the right joining tool. But I was on a budget at the time! Had to pay off the credit card from the antique crystal cabinet ride day.
Looks like the secret is out about the shortwheel base mod now.
Cheers, Phil. <i></i>

[rev 01]

Yeah, the links they are supplying now seem softer to me ??

Someone told me that I ride my bike lop sided after I got home I whipped the seat off & yeah the rubbers have gone on one side again The old lemon merangue couldn't hack the reefton rumble

So the secret's out ? then no one told the reefton snail,
whoever that is <i></i>

[rocket rod 7777]

I looked at both tyes of RK joining links and went for the clip type but i did notice that on the rivet type there are holes drilled in the end of the pins.This is probably why it is easier to peen over. <i></i>

[gazza414]

Thanks gents for the info, I've been using the ball peen hammer and large steel block as a support / absorb the blow method till now and have always questioned the integrity of this method especially on how far to go with the O ring being there.... although You can use a set up gauge.

I thought I might just buy one of the dedicated tools but feel A over T when prices from bikes shops came back at $270 and $330 for a DID and RK proprietary tools ???

Back to the hammer and small press tool to ensure the side link is pressed over the 2 pins evenly <i></i>

[ressac]

just wondering why you can't use a small g-clamp with a steel pin of equal diameter to the chain pins? Just need to line up the pins and put a steel ring on the other side all flush with the g-clamp and wind it through. <i></i>

[gazza414]

Yip , Ressac, that's what my "small press tool" is. My concern was always centred around the integrity of the "mushrooming" of the pins after the side plate is pressed on. The side plates carry / transmit all the force between one link to the next. Since the applied force is theoretically uniformly spread across the roller on the inside there is by geometery a small bending moment on the pin to the outside link... hence the side plates are being forced outwards.....

Ball Peen Hammer

on that note thanks for everyones info , much appreciated <i></i>