Inset Hubs
#1
I see that the 2002 model has inset hibs. When I was stringlining the Bus a couple of days ago I noticed that while I was making sure the front wheel was straight that I was getting different measurements from either side of the wheel. Has Suzuki gone back to their really old off-set hubs? is that the reason i was getting the different readings?
Is that the meaning of "Inset Hubs" if not then what and if so, how far is the off-set so I can recorrect the stringlining I did the other day!

Sorry to be a nuisance.

Cheers

Max Madmax - GSX1300R Black and Blue Buses Rule
Good Bike, Good Woman, Good Road, Good Weather, Good God - Good Bye!
Smith and Wesson - The original point and click interface.
<i></i>
Reply
#2
Huh....? <i></i>
Reply
#3
No matter if the hubs are offset or not, the front wheel and the back need to be inline. Very difficult to do even with the fairings off.

You really need to make up fixtures that attach to the wheels which allow a stringline to pass outside of the motor /body work in order for accurate references to be made ie have a look at a modern car wheel aligning setup with reference lasers and bubble levels.

Remember its not a good principle to use the outside of the tyre as a reference, use the rim edge and be sure to allow for the different wheel widths. ie front is 3.5" and rear is 6" std

I suggest after you have done this check the alignment of the rear sprocket to the front sprocket ( out put shaft ) ..... just might get one hell of a surprise <i></i>
Reply
#4
Hey Gazza,
Now you're worrying me bloke! For the last 20
years I have always string lined my wheels with the tyres on.
I usually get them within about half a mm of absolute
parallel at the front tyre. I just use a couple of biys of 4 x 2 pine with holes in the flat and small pieces of dowel out in front of the bike to hold the ends of the cotton I use that winds down the outside of the tyres. The cotton actually
wraps around the back wheel, very low, so it goes lower than
the bodywork.
While I realise that the tyres will have small
irregularities in them, those irregularities have to be small otherwise the rotation of the wheel would create real instability in the bike.
With the cotton passing on the same line as the
rear wheel is facing, I then measure the distance from the
cotton line to the leading edge of the tyre and the train\ling
edge of the tyre on the same side. This will enable ensuring
that the front wheel is straight. Then measure the other side distance from the cotton to the tyre edge. Any difference
from the other side will project the actual direction the rear
tyre is pointing. It should be pointing directly in the
same direction as the front wheel.
The problem I have found is that I am getting 3
measurements the same on one larger measurement at the
front wheel that has me beaten. I'm not sure of why this is happening.
Can anyone assist?


Cheers


Max <i></i>
Reply
#5
Hi Max,

If the width between the strings at the dowels is greater than the width of your rear tyre you could see that. For the strings to be parallel they must just touch the front of the rear tyre on boths sides. If they diverge towards the front then they will not be parallel with the front wheel. In this case the gaps between the string and the tyre will be fifferent at the front and rear of the front tyre and you just need to make sure that they are equal on both sides. Set the gaps at the back of the front tyre to be equal and the gaps at the front of the front of the front tyre should be equal and greater than the rear gap. If the gap at the front is less than at the back it would mean that the width between your dowels is less than the width of your tyre.

Maybe you have wound around your dowels the opposite way to normal.

Cheers Frank.

<i></i>
Reply
#6
You hit the nail on the head Gonzo - and that's what I
thought would be the case BUT, with the dowels at the same
width apart, runing around the rear of the wheel and just touching the left and right sides of the leading edges of the back tyre - and after measuring the front (leading) and rear (Trailing) edges of one side of the front tyre and getting the wheel pointing straight ahead - I got two different
measurements on the other side of the front tyre.

So I checked the alignement of the string (I actaully use
coloured cotton) and set the front wheel staright, but from the other side of the wheel (doing the measuring thing on the
other side and the other length of cotton). Then I got two
different measurements on the other side to that on which I was working again. That lead me to consider that maybe the hubs were off-set.

The damned thing is handling a lot better than it was when I
got the bike, the lines of cotton, once lined up correctly
actually project the path the rear wheel is pointing in relation
to the front wheel. The measurements at the front wheel
indicated that the rear wheel was some 47 millimeters to the left of the front wheel. No wonder it was handling like a drunk London Bus!

As they say in the classics "fucknose"!


Max Madmax - GSX1300R Black and Blue Buses Rule
Good Bike, Good Woman, Good Road, Good Weather, Good God - Good Bye!
Smith and Wesson - The original point and click interface.
<i></i>
Reply




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)