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Had a search around and couldn't really find an answer. Just had stainless lines added to the front brakes, but they still feel ordinary. The lever pressure is better, they don't feel spongy, but the braking is still not very sharp and needs a good 3 finger haul on the lever to pull up the bike. Eek

Bike is 2006 with 13500km's on it.

Could it be that the brakes are glazed? If so, is there anything I can do to fix it (sanding the pads etc..?).

If this is what the standard brakes are like, then reading the forum, am I best to change to EBC HH pads?
squeez harder!
aussiemonster Wrote:Had a search around and couldn't really find an answer. Just had stainless lines added to the front brakes, but they still feel ordinary. The lever pressure is better, they don't feel spongy, but the braking is still not very sharp and needs a good 3 finger haul on the lever to pull up the bike. Eek

Bike is 2006 with 13500km's on it.

Could it be that the brakes are glazed? If so, is there anything I can do to fix it (sanding the pads etc..?).

If this is what the standard brakes are like, then reading the forum, am I best to change to EBC HH pads?

usually a mix of pads and rotors,use some 800 w7d paper give it a rub clean scrub your pads on the wall a little
and see what happens. If no good send me a chq and i will make u stop like a litre bike.

BLACKZOOK

As Ray saidm mate give them a rub with wet and dry and if that doesnt help get some EBC HH or equalivalent.

spamanglenn

Usually metal pads and very hard rotors with light braking causes it.SCuffing them up will help for a while but it will come back.If you rotors are fine try a different pad.The stock rotors don,t have much carbon in them and its hard to get anything to bite them.Metal pads have good cold to hot performance but can glaze,organics take a few stops to heat up but are smooth and strong,but wear out quicker and are a bit dustier.Choose your poison.
BLACKZOOK Wrote:As Ray saidm mate give them a rub with wet and dry and if that doesnt help get some EBC HH or equalivalent.

I have exactly the same problem! When I did my track day at PI it was then that I decided that the track is where I cut loose. Yesterday I asked the guy who fitted my braided brake lines and new pads and asked him to fit new pads, he told me straight away that I wouldn't need newies, he asked if I've been riding around like an old mole (yes I have) and that I have probably glazed my pads. So when I get back from my day of old mole riding to check out the expo guess what I'm a gunna do, pour myself a jacks or 3 and rip the pads out, give them a light sand and slip them back in and go for a ride tomorrow to see if the problem is solved. I reckon it will be!!!!!
maybe bit of a silly request, bus Ive never sanded my pads and I feel they need them to, they sorta stutter or shudder as braking.

kawa says use 800 paper, zook mentions wet & dry, will someone give an accurate method to sand ones pads with what sort o paper to use and methods etc. etc.

ps. read a tip somewhere to sand the front or read edge of pad to help braking, @ 45 degree angle something to that effect.

BLACKZOOK

Volvi Wrote:maybe bit of a silly request, bus Ive never sanded my pads and I feel they need them to, they sorta stutter or shudder as braking.

kawa says use 800 paper, zook mentions wet & dry, will someone give an accurate method to sand ones pads with what sort o paper to use and methods etc. etc.

ps. read a tip somewhere to sand the front or read edge of pad to help braking, @ 45 degree angle something to that effect.

Volvi both Kawa and I mention wet and dry, kawa fat fingered a 7 between the W&D.

Flat surface plate glass is good, hose onto the paper hold the paper in place and rub the pad onto it. A flat hard sanding block and plenty of water will do the same thing.

In my opinion a chamfer on the leading edge will allow dirt to pass under the pad.
Problem solved! Pi_thumbsup Just been for a spin and they brakes are like new again. I used a 800 grade wet & dry but used no water. The moral to this story is, LATE BRAKING!

BLACKZOOK

Well done mate pleased to hear it worked well.

The only reason for the water is to keep the abrasive face of the paper clean, stop it clogging.

Biker
Sanded the brakes and discs. Certainly seems to have helped. There's much more initial bite and the brakes now work (ie more squeeze on the lever = more braking!)

Thanks for the help guys.
sanded my pads, i used wet 360 then 600 with water. so far pads feel better. didnt touch my discs.....theyre hardly worn to the touch.
BLACKZOOK Wrote:
Volvi Wrote:maybe bit of a silly request, bus Ive never sanded my pads and I feel they need them to, they sorta stutter or shudder as braking.

kawa says use 800 paper, zook mentions wet & dry, will someone give an accurate method to sand ones pads with what sort o paper to use and methods etc. etc.

ps. read a tip somewhere to sand the front or read edge of pad to help braking, @ 45 degree angle something to that effect.

Volvi both Kawa and I mention wet and dry, kawa fat fingered a 7 between the W&D.

Flat surface plate glass is good, hose onto the paper hold the paper in place and rub the pad onto it. A flat hard sanding block and plenty of water will do the same thing.

In my opinion a chamfer on the leading edge will allow dirt to pass under the pad.

I was taught/told as an apprentice back in the dark ages that the chamfer prevented brake squeal, always put a chamfer on, most come already chamfered now and never had pad or shoe squeal after I fitted newbies to cars or bikes