simmo
23-07-2005, 06:50pm
I know what you mean Volvi, it would have to be a bloody good one to replace the Mighty Copper/Silver one, not so many of the running around anymore. Cheers Robert
23-07-2005, 06:50pm
rev 01
24-07-2005, 02:01pm
All been smashed up by wood ducks ........quack
RaZ80
25-07-2005, 03:54pm
ok...
I am a little confused by all of this!
The Air box mod has been promoted on this board as it is ment to help with low speed and take off by removing he flap and allowing enough air flow in to the box (Or soemthing like that??)
Anyways, thats why I got it and ever since low speed has been the smoothest I have ever got... but now Voli is saying its bad for low speed ???
WTF?!?!
Voli, could it be this guy just couldn't do it ??
And can someone please explain this ??
I am a little confused by all of this!
The Air box mod has been promoted on this board as it is ment to help with low speed and take off by removing he flap and allowing enough air flow in to the box (Or soemthing like that??)
Anyways, thats why I got it and ever since low speed has been the smoothest I have ever got... but now Voli is saying its bad for low speed ???
WTF?!?!
Voli, could it be this guy just couldn't do it ??
And can someone please explain this ??
Volvi
25-07-2005, 05:11pm
Raz, Im no mechanic or expert but the way I understood the mod to be good for higher speeds and with no flap on lower speeds and at startup ie no warmer air from engine, and with after market cans can contribute to the bike not running smoothly initially.....But hey I could be wrong on all this too, perhaps some more qualified then I can comment on it.
aBUSa
25-07-2005, 07:51pm
I am no mechanic but I have some experience with this mod having done so on my own bike (well Shredder and I did it).
We fitted a Brock Hindle Exhaust to my Bus with the Full Airbox Mod and the Pair Valve Removal (we used 6mm hex headed studsrather than the block off plates). Both were recommended by Brock and the instructions for each came in the Box along with the Exhaust Fitting Instructions.
After Shredders earlier experiences with a Yoshi and no mods we expected a bike that ran ratty down low but were surprised that it was relatively smooth and didnt require immediate attention at the Dyno. Shredder has since fitted another Yoshi to his own bike with the above mods with similiar results, although he did get around to tuning it properly.
So my take on all this is, if its Standard there is no need, the Factory has done a reasonabe job of tuning the bike for all conditions albeit rich as buggery.
If you have replacement mufflers and your keeping the factory headers you probably shouldnt be doing it either, generally its only recomended for full replacement systems.
If you have modified the box than you probably need to do the pair valve mod as well, they really go hand in hand.
As every bike and every muffler is different there is no way of predicting what the results will be. If you want to run the risk of making your bike run rough go right ahead. Check what the manufacture says, they will probably have done all the testing for you.
All bikes will benefit from some time on the Dyno, what might be ok for Canberra wont be right for Cairns, it will run ok but not to its optimum, and thats what this all about.
Some Reading
Brock Racing Airbox Modification
Brock Racing Pair Valve
Again, this is only my take on the matter and there are plenty of wiser people than me around.
To answer Volvi's question well I believe them to be the same but I havent swapped them over as yet, if you have done the box think about changing it back putting on a Dyno or doing the Pair Valve Mod as last resort
Hope this helps
Edited by: aBUSa at: 25/7/05 7:53 pm
We fitted a Brock Hindle Exhaust to my Bus with the Full Airbox Mod and the Pair Valve Removal (we used 6mm hex headed studsrather than the block off plates). Both were recommended by Brock and the instructions for each came in the Box along with the Exhaust Fitting Instructions.
After Shredders earlier experiences with a Yoshi and no mods we expected a bike that ran ratty down low but were surprised that it was relatively smooth and didnt require immediate attention at the Dyno. Shredder has since fitted another Yoshi to his own bike with the above mods with similiar results, although he did get around to tuning it properly.
So my take on all this is, if its Standard there is no need, the Factory has done a reasonabe job of tuning the bike for all conditions albeit rich as buggery.
If you have replacement mufflers and your keeping the factory headers you probably shouldnt be doing it either, generally its only recomended for full replacement systems.
If you have modified the box than you probably need to do the pair valve mod as well, they really go hand in hand.
As every bike and every muffler is different there is no way of predicting what the results will be. If you want to run the risk of making your bike run rough go right ahead. Check what the manufacture says, they will probably have done all the testing for you.
All bikes will benefit from some time on the Dyno, what might be ok for Canberra wont be right for Cairns, it will run ok but not to its optimum, and thats what this all about.
Some Reading
Brock Racing Airbox Modification
Brock Racing Pair Valve
Again, this is only my take on the matter and there are plenty of wiser people than me around.
To answer Volvi's question well I believe them to be the same but I havent swapped them over as yet, if you have done the box think about changing it back putting on a Dyno or doing the Pair Valve Mod as last resort
Hope this helps
Edited by: aBUSa at: 25/7/05 7:53 pm
GDYUP
25-07-2005, 09:46pm
Dyno's?
Most members are scared of these contraptions aBusa???
Aparentley they are only good for all the race bikes, they f*** up road bikes! (Go figure?)
Cheers, Dyno tuning, not Guessing
By the way, I reckon the airbox mod is great up the top end. I don't do much City riding though...
Most members are scared of these contraptions aBusa???
Aparentley they are only good for all the race bikes, they f*** up road bikes! (Go figure?)
Cheers, Dyno tuning, not Guessing
By the way, I reckon the airbox mod is great up the top end. I don't do much City riding though...
rev 01
25-07-2005, 10:26pm
fasterfaster1
25-07-2005, 11:05pm
Well like all mods .................as long as bike is retuned accordingly then it's a plus 4 Hp actually (measured not guessed) Problem with most mods is that people perform them and then don't retune resulting in a minus
fact or fiction ....................well thats the difference between a measure and a guess So if ya cheesecake can handle a Dyno run without a melt down then give it ago .................the results may surprise you
FF1
ps Giddy ...................yours must be stuffed by now
fact or fiction ....................well thats the difference between a measure and a guess So if ya cheesecake can handle a Dyno run without a melt down then give it ago .................the results may surprise you
FF1
ps Giddy ...................yours must be stuffed by now
rocket rod 7777
26-07-2005, 10:17am
Yeah,like you are going to notice 4hp on the busa
But i do understand what you are saying as in the computer will need readjusting to compensate for the airbox mod. Phuck its the phantom!
But i do understand what you are saying as in the computer will need readjusting to compensate for the airbox mod. Phuck its the phantom!
RaZ80
26-07-2005, 11:34am
Yeah dyno for sure
In fact I find it funny that it was said busa members are scared of those things lol
I actually dyno mine every 10,000km or so keeps it in check hehe
In fact I find it funny that it was said busa members are scared of those things lol
I actually dyno mine every 10,000km or so keeps it in check hehe
rocket rod 7777
26-07-2005, 01:26pm
Why would you need to "keep it in check" if you havent modified anything??????In theory it should never need adjustment unless you do some sort of modification,or unless your motor wears really bad(like down in one cylinder)and then you are only masking the problem! Phuck its the phantom!
GDYUP
26-07-2005, 06:27pm
What did I say?
Come in chicken lips...
Save your for the fines Rocket I'll spend mine on the right tuning.......
Cheers, Phil Riding not Talking
Come in chicken lips...
Save your for the fines Rocket I'll spend mine on the right tuning.......
Cheers, Phil Riding not Talking
RaZ80
26-07-2005, 07:38pm
ok, to answer your questions Rocket... and I could be wrong in what I am about to say so feel free in correcting me.
1. It was recommend to me to dyno it every 10 ~ 15,000k
Something along the lines of "Its a highly tuned, high power engine and needs to be kept up and well looked after" Now considering how well the busa's engine is put together, its not a major worry I have but it will save me money in the long run if I know its running the way it should.
2. While the dyno tune is adjusting the air and fuel I also figure it could show up problems before they get too bad, a dip in power ? power drop in set revs ? I keep all paper work on what has been done to the bike, by who, how much it costed and all dyno figures get laminated and given to who ever is going to work on the bike to look for these kinda problems. Now... if thats true or a waste of time, I am not 100% sure but it kinda sounds logical to me.
3. I personally like to know my bike is tuned and running 100%. Hell I pay for that thing to have that kinda power, and before I hear anything about not riding or not using that power, remember I do ride it as my fulltime transport and I love giving it heaps. I work the engine a fair whack when I ride. As for mods, well I have done the air mods, custom chips from 10/10ths, pretty much everything apart from the BTL. Hence why it was dyno'd in the first place.
Valid or not ??
Edited by: RaZ80 at: 26/7/05 7:41 pm
1. It was recommend to me to dyno it every 10 ~ 15,000k
Something along the lines of "Its a highly tuned, high power engine and needs to be kept up and well looked after" Now considering how well the busa's engine is put together, its not a major worry I have but it will save me money in the long run if I know its running the way it should.
2. While the dyno tune is adjusting the air and fuel I also figure it could show up problems before they get too bad, a dip in power ? power drop in set revs ? I keep all paper work on what has been done to the bike, by who, how much it costed and all dyno figures get laminated and given to who ever is going to work on the bike to look for these kinda problems. Now... if thats true or a waste of time, I am not 100% sure but it kinda sounds logical to me.
3. I personally like to know my bike is tuned and running 100%. Hell I pay for that thing to have that kinda power, and before I hear anything about not riding or not using that power, remember I do ride it as my fulltime transport and I love giving it heaps. I work the engine a fair whack when I ride. As for mods, well I have done the air mods, custom chips from 10/10ths, pretty much everything apart from the BTL. Hence why it was dyno'd in the first place.
Valid or not ??
Edited by: RaZ80 at: 26/7/05 7:41 pm
pan
26-07-2005, 10:12pm
Hi Raz. Why "everything except the BTL"?
I'm about to embark on a few mods and thought the BTL would be the first one...
"sometimes, crime does pay"
I'm about to embark on a few mods and thought the BTL would be the first one...
"sometimes, crime does pay"
rocket rod 7777
26-07-2005, 10:41pm
Unless you have something constructive to say,best not to say anything.
Raz,here is my reasoning,the fuel injection is run by an electrical computer,yes?As such in theory there is nothing to wear on it,so it should never need adjusting unless either
1,you do some sort of mod to alter this.....or
2,something in the engine has worn and in such case,it needs to be repaired,not retuned to compensated for.
Yes i agree a dyno can be used to fault find,but to me if the thing is running good,you are never going to get it any better.
I know a few guys have fitted a power commander,but this is usally done because the engine has been changed from the original design perameter.If you stuck a power commander on a totally stock engine,then you are just waisting your hard earned $$$$$$.
Raz save your money for fuel because you are gunna need it soon. Phuck its the phantom!
Raz,here is my reasoning,the fuel injection is run by an electrical computer,yes?As such in theory there is nothing to wear on it,so it should never need adjusting unless either
1,you do some sort of mod to alter this.....or
2,something in the engine has worn and in such case,it needs to be repaired,not retuned to compensated for.
Yes i agree a dyno can be used to fault find,but to me if the thing is running good,you are never going to get it any better.
I know a few guys have fitted a power commander,but this is usally done because the engine has been changed from the original design perameter.If you stuck a power commander on a totally stock engine,then you are just waisting your hard earned $$$$$$.
Raz save your money for fuel because you are gunna need it soon. Phuck its the phantom!