Assistance please .. I'm trying to fit a quickshifter
#1
Hi all, Ive been buying some toys lately from a reputable vendor in brisbane..all is well in this regard

First toy was the pc3 usb power commander - fitted all good
Second was the TRE from glpro - fitted all good

Third ws the power commander usb lcd dash - fitted all good
And forth is the power shifter ....um?????

I went to fit my quickshifter with the under standing that this unit would be replacing my original selector rod.

It appears this is not the case.

Who has a picture of there bike fitted with the power commander quick shifter ?

If i remember correctedly, Busadan had one fitted to his bike...

I wasn't real keen on drilling holes in my chasis to fit this thing thats all, without some prior knowledge.

cheers in advance
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#2
I just finished fitting pc3 usb power commander,LCD dash,hub and a power shifter today, did not drill any holes in the chassis. I will try and get some pic tomorrow not shore how to put them up may have to email to you if that helps
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#3
rb3221 Wrote:I just finished fitting pc3 usb power commander,LCD dash,hub and a power shifter today, did not drill any holes in the chassis. I will try and get some pic tomorrow not shore how to put them up may have to email to you if that helps

Awesome... really appreciated

PS: what bracket etc or booty-fab did you use to mount your dash ?
I'm thinking about a bit of velco and wacking in it in the middle of the top handle bar plate - in the middle...

Should be able to see "add attachement" tab whilst making your posts - insert pics then - cheers
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#4
For the LCD I built a swivel/tilt bracket it mounted from the steel bracket from behind the dash and goâ€s over the top so you move the LCD up and down as well as tilts it.

I will try and get a picture of it as well.
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#5
Punchy Wrote:
rb3221 Wrote:I just finished fitting pc3 usb power commander,LCD dash,hub and a power shifter today, did not drill any holes in the chassis. I will try and get some pic tomorrow not shore how to put them up may have to email to you if that helps

Awesome... really appreciated

PS: what bracket etc or booty-fab did you use to mount your dash ?
I'm thinking about a bit of velco and wacking in it in the middle of the top handle bar plate - in the middle...

Should be able to see "add attachement" tab whilst making your posts - insert pics then - cheers

Shifter


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#6
Sorry the other was on rear sets I did not think about that so here is another picture of one it did on a OEM set


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#7
thanks for that,

My sensor looks a little different to that one shown, but i saw a similar picture to one i saw somewhere in my travels for info.

Cheeers again
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#8
Which sensor do you have? the one in the picture is the one for the busa. the one in the top came from dynojet a week ago and the other came in 6 mth ago
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#9
The model shown is the Linear Sensor which is the Part suggested for the Hayabusa and is superceded by a model that looks similar to the Pressure/Tension Sensor.

If you want to replace the Shift Rod you require either the Shift Rod Tension Sensor (Pull Type) m6/m6 threads 4-101 or the Shift Rod Pressure Sensor (Push Type) m6/m6 threads 4-102 depending on Shift patten both requiring Male/Male Shift Rod B (Black Anodized Aluminum) 32104050.

Not sure why they use the Linear Sensor as the Pressure/Tension Sensor works quite alright.

http://www.powercommander.com/powercomma...ifter.aspx
Shayne
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#10
I used the Linear Sensor Because that is what Dynojet sent for the Hayabusa!
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#11
abusa Wrote:The model shown is the Linear Sensor which is the Part suggested for the Hayabusa and is superceded by a model that looks similar to the Pressure/Tension Sensor.

If you want to replace the Shift Rod you require either the Shift Rod Tension Sensor (Pull Type) m6/m6 threads 4-101 or the Shift Rod Pressure Sensor (Push Type) m6/m6 threads 4-102 depending on Shift patten both requiring Male/Male Shift Rod B (Black Anodized Aluminum) 32104050.

Not sure why they use the Linear Sensor as the Pressure/Tension Sensor works quite alright.

http://www.powercommander.com/powercomma...ifter.aspx

Thanks very much for that input...

As it works out i went back to the shop today and informed them of my situation. I spoke withthe head mechanic there, and he agreed with me that a linear unit is not the best option for the hayabusa and was goign to be talking to a rep from dynoject on saturaday afternoon. I assume they will get the correct unit organised for me.

I was of the assumption that the unit for the busa would replace the factory link rod, and not have me to goof around with drilling holes and so on in my chasis. Thats what im not thrilled about.

The one that is on that link is the one that has been sent to me.
That's the 4-104 linear push type, and its to long to mounted up to the gear position sensor thingy link others have shown.

Once I get the right one ill post a pic or three for future reference for other ppl.. for the DIY'ers
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#12
No worries Punchy, hope it works out either way.

RB I was referring to Power Commander in my comments. Maybe there is a reason for them suggesting the Linear Sensor over the Pressure/Tension Sensor for the Busa but it isnt immediately apparent. Both work just in a different way. I have the Linear Sensor but probably would have gone the other idf I had known earlier.
Shayne
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#13
I sell the Cordona sensor which is a push/pull switch so you could run a normal shift pattern one day then reverse it the next if you wanted to and still use the same sensor which replaces the shift linkage. The dynojet sensors are push or pull only with the linkage replacement sensors. Cordona sensors also come with a blank rod that you just cut drill and tap to suit your bikes linkage length. I fitted mine the other night and it went on easy.


   
There is no strong performance without a little fanaticism in the performer
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#14
Another alternative you can do to save on buying expensive dynojet stuff etc. is to use a brake light switch as I have done on my K8. Dosen't look as fancy and all that but does the job exactly the same, for a totall of about 5 bucks. Just have to rig up a little bracket for it and I just use a small spring to activate it. Just make sure you can adjust the spring tension to fine tune it for the initial set up and then no probs.

I got mine set up here in the pic for reverse pattern shift which I always use, but easy to have it as conventional shift as well.

[Image: DSCN0892.jpg]

Cheers.
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#15
I did the brake light switch thing on my R1 last year and it worked a treat but every now and then during normal clutched gear shifts the engine would die. I had a suspicion that perhaps I should have run a diode or LED in the circuit but I never bothered to investigate further.
There is no strong performance without a little fanaticism in the performer
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