22-03-2009, 03:16pm
(This post was last modified: 22-03-2009, 03:17pm by Gnarbunkle99.)
You have to remove the banjo fitting that supplies oil to the tensioner then remove 2 allen head bolts, then withdraw the tensioner. Its tight in there trying to get the allen bolts out. There is a 1 way ratchet device on the tensioner that alows it to take up only. How far this is out givs you an idea of how stretchd the chain and how worn the chain guides may be.
Valve springs will also cause th cam lift that you describe, you have to tighten all the cap bolts an even number of turns each in a criss cross pattern or risk damage, painfully slow with motor insitu.
When you put the tensioner back in, to readjust it to length you have to turn the motor opposite to normal rotation to put the cam chain slack on the cam chain adjustor side. Either by turning the RHS crankshaft end bolt anticlockwise thru the inspection cover or maybe even by grabbing your back wheel and turn it backward. The unusual sound the motor makes is the starter 1 way clutch engaging and driving th starter eqpt. Lot easier to hand turn if your spark plugs are out.
Valve springs will also cause th cam lift that you describe, you have to tighten all the cap bolts an even number of turns each in a criss cross pattern or risk damage, painfully slow with motor insitu.
When you put the tensioner back in, to readjust it to length you have to turn the motor opposite to normal rotation to put the cam chain slack on the cam chain adjustor side. Either by turning the RHS crankshaft end bolt anticlockwise thru the inspection cover or maybe even by grabbing your back wheel and turn it backward. The unusual sound the motor makes is the starter 1 way clutch engaging and driving th starter eqpt. Lot easier to hand turn if your spark plugs are out.
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