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24-04-2010, 01:12am
TUNGSTEN carbide burr! Carbide gets shot to shit too quick. But I've found an even better way. A compound table, a swivel angle plate and a 4" grinder fitted with a 1mm thick cutting disk. Make a mount for the grinder, and another for the gear (I use a spare shaft), adjust the position of the gear using the swivel plate and compound table. Just get your angles right and drive the gear to the grinder, does beautiful undercuts. Then, (this is crucial), as Maj alludes to, use bearing/prussian blue to check all the mating surfaces have even contact.
BTW, some will say you don't need to use billet shift shafts. Well that's fucken bullshit. They flex like you wouldn't believe, I've pulled apart Busa boxes where the box is jammed and the shafts are still bowed by the jammed fork. Move the fork over with a gentle lever and the shaft flexes back to its original straight position. Tool steel/billet shafts fix that problem once and for all. They also help prevent the shaft holes in your cases from 'barrelling' due to repeated excessive flexing.
Wear eye protection and have fun.
'Safety First' Camel
BTW, some will say you don't need to use billet shift shafts. Well that's fucken bullshit. They flex like you wouldn't believe, I've pulled apart Busa boxes where the box is jammed and the shafts are still bowed by the jammed fork. Move the fork over with a gentle lever and the shaft flexes back to its original straight position. Tool steel/billet shafts fix that problem once and for all. They also help prevent the shaft holes in your cases from 'barrelling' due to repeated excessive flexing.
Wear eye protection and have fun.
'Safety First' Camel