Second gear dramas (another one!)

[Legend]

TUNGSTEN carbide burr! Carbide gets shot to shit too quick. But I've found an even better way. A compound table, a swivel angle plate and a 4" grinder fitted with a 1mm thick cutting disk. Make a mount for the grinder, and another for the gear (I use a spare shaft), adjust the position of the gear using the swivel plate and compound table. Just get your angles right and drive the gear to the grinder, does beautiful undercuts. Then, (this is crucial), as Maj alludes to, use bearing/prussian blue to check all the mating surfaces have even contact.

BTW, some will say you don't need to use billet shift shafts. Well that's fucken bullshit. They flex like you wouldn't believe, I've pulled apart Busa boxes where the box is jammed and the shafts are still bowed by the jammed fork. Move the fork over with a gentle lever and the shaft flexes back to its original straight position. Tool steel/billet shafts fix that problem once and for all. They also help prevent the shaft holes in your cases from 'barrelling' due to repeated excessive flexing.

Wear eye protection and have fun.

'Safety First' Camel

I dont use billet shift shafts so I guess I must talk bullshit.

If all is working well within the gearbox then why would you need them? lots of busa's have 100,000ks without being touched, once you take the motor out of a bike and put it in a car chassis is when you find the weak link or create weak links in the busa motor. Billet shift shalfs will cover up the problem of the shift forks not holding up to the abuse. The gearbox is under way more stress in a car or big tyre dragbike then in a "normal" busa configuration.

I agree that the billet shafts would be a lot stronger than the stock shalfts but dont agree that you have to have them.

Thats my opinon , if you think I talk bullshit then thats your opinon.

Leonard.