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How do you adjust the back brake?
My back brake works fine - but there is a lot of "play" in it. The lever moves a lot before it starts to work. It's not spongy, and works perfectly once the lever is moved past the free play point. I've seen that there is a thread and lock nut on the plunger, but this seems to be at it's limit already(as set at the factory) so I haven't attempted to adjust this. (yet)
Or is it just that my rear pads are worn and/or it's time to change the fluid?
Rather than do my usual and "have a play and stuff it all up - then put it back to how I found it and get someone who knows to fix it"
I thought I'd ask here 1st.
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How much meat left on the pads Ward and how much travel are you talking about ?
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Methinks there is a lot of mechanical travel before we're getting any braking mate. Mine's the same and I have been all over it looking to alter the travel length. Yoiu can minimise what travel you have, but will still have a fair whack of travel in her.
Good weather, good woman, good road, good bike, good-bye!!
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I am guessing yo are talking Gen 1 as in my Gen 2 i have it adjusted so it has only about 10mm travel before it starts gripping. I think the adjustments should be substantially more then the increase by the wear of the pads providing that the pads would fully retract which is never the case. Otherwise it would be a really shit design.
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(27-08-2011, 05:08pm)bandit Wrote: How much meat left on the pads Ward and how much travel are you talking about ?
I'll have to check out my "meat" - but it's been a while since they were changed.
Probably 15 - 20mm movement on the brake pedal before anything happens.
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I don't want a pickle . . .
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Try hanging a heavy weight on the brake pedal to keep constant pressure on it overnight & see if the travel improves in the morning.
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(27-08-2011, 08:59pm)Ward P Wrote: (27-08-2011, 05:08pm)bandit Wrote: How much meat left on the pads Ward and how much travel are you talking about ?
I'll have to check out my "meat" - but it's been a while since they were changed.
Probably 15 - 20mm movement on the brake pedal before anything happens.
Mm that's more than i have i will have a look at mine in the morning and see 
I have a new rear tyre to scrub in so i might wander out you way about lunchtime sunday
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Wardy pad wear has no relevance to pedal travel as it's a compensating port master. As caliper pistons move outward the master compensates for the extra volume created in the system. Odds on the rear caliper seals are sticking and drawing the pistons back to far and hence each time you operate brake it has to take up the clearance before any brake application is felt. Seal distortion is all that brings the pistons back to rest position. Do as Global suggests and if it fixs prob then the caliper seals are at fault
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27-08-2011, 09:21pm
(This post was last modified: 27-08-2011, 09:22pm by Ward P.)
(27-08-2011, 09:12pm)bandit Wrote: (27-08-2011, 08:59pm)Ward P Wrote: (27-08-2011, 05:08pm)bandit Wrote: How much meat left on the pads Ward and how much travel are you talking about ?
I'll have to check out my "meat" - but it's been a while since they were changed.
Probably 15 - 20mm movement on the brake pedal before anything happens.
Mm that's more than i have i will have a look at mine in the morning and see 
I have a new rear tyre to scrub in so i might wander out you way about lunchtime sunday
Off to Melbourne bright(or not so) and early in the morning, so wont be around. Cathy's here though, always looking for an excuse for a coffee!
(27-08-2011, 09:16pm)fasterfaster Wrote: Wardy pad wear has no relevance to pedal travel as it's a compensating port master. As caliper pistons move outward the master compensates for the extra volume created in the system. Odds on the rear caliper seals are sticking and drawing the pistons back to far and hence each time you operate brake it has to take up the clearance before any brake application is felt. Seal distortion is all that brings the pistons back to rest position. Do as Global suggests and if it fixs prob then the caliper seals are at fault
Thanks, I'll give it a try and post up results.
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(27-08-2011, 09:12pm)bandit Wrote: (27-08-2011, 08:59pm)Ward P Wrote: I'll have to check out my "meat"....
Mm that's more than i have i will have a look at mine in the morning...
You guys are really sick ya know.....comparing your "meat" like that!!!! Please stay right away from each other (...AND me) at the trough, ok?!?
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Is it a common problem that the back brakes feel "woody"?
Mine have almost no feel and really don't feel like they are doing much.... Do you have any suggestions to help improve it?
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(28-08-2011, 09:32am)RyanG Wrote: Is it a common problem that the back brakes feel "woody"?
Mine have almost no feel and really don't feel like they are doing much.... Do you have any suggestions to help improve it?
Learn to ride without them 
ony use when pulled up at lights & slow riding
Busa's yeah i guess i like them I've owned a few
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+1 I very rarely touch the back brakes at all.
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(28-08-2011, 12:02pm)TheShredder Wrote: (28-08-2011, 09:32am)RyanG Wrote: Is it a common problem that the back brakes feel "woody"?
Mine have almost no feel and really don't feel like they are doing much.... Do you have any suggestions to help improve it?
Learn to ride without them 
ony use when pulled up at lights & slow riding
...and useful in high speed cornering... Superbike School will tell you not to touch them, but Stay Upright showed me how "touching" them when cranked over at speed can actually assist you in tipping-in a little further and take off speed, whereas touching the front will make the bike sit upright...
I'm not suggesting you all do it, but it works for me. Try it (at lower speed) and you'll see what they mean...
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