Hi
I bought a 2005 Busa from Ebay about 6 months ago, it was a damaged repaired model, not repaired to well but im working on that, but intact and road worthy, sort of. Currently showing about 33k on mileage. It was bought with a pink slip the day before but had huge over heating issues and boiled over in traffic the day i brought it home. That was put down to a sticky thermo. Presently it hates sitting in traffic and going slow in general and gets hot real quick, temp gauge stays middle or just over middle and fan comes on hasnt boiled over since but is bloody hot. My dillema is this we are approaching Summer and expect some 40+ days soon. I ride her about 20 minutes to the beach on open road with no stops and the alloy frame is as hot as hell. The coolent bottle does not feel as hot as the frame. Actually rode it a few kilometres yesterday and the frame heated up. My local dealer is a Honda dealer and said hasnt got a clue, my local Suzuki dealer who looked at it when i got it missed a few major safety issues so Im relunctent to take it there. If any one knows of a similar problem or someone who lives on or near the Central coast of NSW that knows Hayabusa's. Im thinking the machine may go up in a cloud of smoke soon and that would kill me. Thanks for reading my woeful story. Im not a chick btw the logon is the missus nickname :).
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the frame on the busa gets pretty hot generally and they pump out alot of heat as a rule. if its not boiling anymore then it should be ok. so far ive had three busa's and they have all felt very hot when idling in traffic i think this is jsut a charateristic of how the bike dissapates the heat. all three of my frames were hot when riding and given that the engine block so to speak has direct metal to metal contact with the frame i can understand it getting hot.
Regards
Dan
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I haven't really noticed the hot frame before 'cause I rode with long pants... I just got in after a 20 minute ride 5 minutes ago. I ran out and checked the frame. It's very hot!
Sounds like it's normal to me.
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Yep, they all run with a VERY HOT frame even after a short spin.
The engine heat needs to be able to get out from behind the engine, so any blockage of air vents or gaps between the frame and tank won't help.
Even putting a tank bra on a GEN 1 busa increases the heat level by blocking that small gap.
"If time catches up with you. You're going too slow!"
Regards BUSGO
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as long as you hear the fan come on it shud be ok barring any other issues. i have heard of those that mounted a second fan with manuel switch to be sure.
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The alloy is also very slow to dissapate heat compared to other metals.
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dolly39 Wrote:Im not a chick btw the logon is the missus nickname :).
Sure it is . . . Oh and welcome to the club ... err ... officer 
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The single fan on the Gen1 is marginal on hot days in traffic. Some ofthe "fixits" that I have heard about are a metal fan from Muzzy which has more blade area. Some coolants claim to work better than the Glycol-water factory coolant. Fitting a second fan. But before you try any of those, make sure you get every last bit air out the cooling system, not easy to do.
![[Image: zzzCustom.jpg]](http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s69/Gnarbunkle99/zzzCustom.jpg)
"par excellence"
You mentioned the sticky thermo. Have you replaced the original thermostat yet?. A stock busa should not in normal riding overheat. Half way or just over on the guage is normal and radient heat is too.
I have a spare stock thermo fan fitted with a muzzy blade if you need it. For sale to you officer for 3 credit points on my licence, I'm on 11 points now so really need help 
Just kidding mate. If you need a hand give me a ring on 0400 697 254.
Yeah being on a Hayabusa stuck in traffic = not a lot of fun. It's a bit like straddling your bbq with all the burners on. Only bike I ever rode that was worse was a ZZR1100, which I was moving for a mate who was moving house. Had to stand beside it waiting for the lights to change, I ws wondering how long it was going to take to vapour lock.
Nice cool bike - RF900. Huge radiator + oil cooler, plus internal oil sprayers on the big ends, thing used to sit on the first line no matter what.
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Try sitting on a VF1000R on m4 with a full tank of fuel spewing out of fuel cap on to your goolies it burns 
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1hotbusa Wrote:Yeah being on a Hayabusa stuck in traffic = not a lot of fun. It's a bit like straddling your bbq with all the burners on.
 Never thought of it that way, but that's how I can explain the burn marks on the inside thigh on a pair of jeans I have.
On hot days in Brisbane when the road is a bit too narrow to filter comfortably, I just turn the bike off when I get stuck. If the car ahead moves half a meter, I just walk it. Or I just find a niceish cafe and grab a cool drink till the moronic cagers figure out how to get home.
evilRasp Wrote:1hotbusa Wrote:Yeah being on a Hayabusa stuck in traffic = not a lot of fun. It's a bit like straddling your bbq with all the burners on.
Never thought of it that way, but that's how I can explain the burn marks on the inside thigh on a pair of jeans I have.
On hot days in Brisbane when the road is a bit too narrow to filter comfortably, I just turn the bike off when I get stuck. If the car ahead moves half a meter, I just walk it. Or I just find a niceish cafe and grab a cool drink till the moronic cagers figure out how to get home.
There are two issues with shutting it down hot, especially if you are in traffic. Firstly, coolant flow, except for slight thermosiphon effect, stops immediately. That exposes the cylinder head to excessive heat. In saying that I have not heard of Hayabusas cracking their cylinder heads, but it's not a good practise. If the thermofan is running then it's doing the best it can, just get it moving.
The second issue can be the Intake Air Temp Sensor (IATS). Unless you've moved it, it is located in the bottom of the airbox, right above the nice toasty hot motor. Shut it down, the heat rises, you may be there for 20 minutes while it cools down enough to start. To help or alleviate issue if it happens - turn nose of bike into the wind and wait. To prevent in the first place, relocate the sensor into the ram air tube - problem gone. 
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1hotbusa Wrote:There are two issues with shutting it down hot, especially if you are in traffic. Firstly, coolant flow, except for slight thermosiphon effect, stops immediately. That exposes the cylinder head to excessive heat. In saying that I have not heard of Hayabusas cracking their cylinder heads, but it's not a good practise. If the thermofan is running then it's doing the best it can, just get it moving.
This thought has crossed my mind. I generally shut the bike down well before it has gotten to the point where I can't touch the frame, so it's not much worse than arriving at a destination and stopping IMVHO.
Either way, I find another route where at least I have some forward speed. I'm not a big fan of feeling the heat off the engine through the front side of my boots.
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