Back torque limitor mod.
#1
Col, could you add your comments to this thread that appeared on another board.

Author Topic: clutch/back torque limitor
OzzieBusa
NEW MEMBER posted 12-10-2000 07:51 AM
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Interested in having my clutch/back torque limitor modified to enable dragging without fear of stalling. I believe it's done just by doing a four spot weld on the face to stop the inner ring.
Any comments? anyone done it? is it worthwhile doing?

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Frank Adams
NEW MEMBER posted 12-10-2000 08:09 AM
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In order to have any welding done with your clutch piece, it would need to be done in a jig.
*THERE IS OTHER OPTIONS.

Option 1
All billit no welds.


Option 2
Out performs all other clutch mods.


I am a Dealer for the MTC clutch mod. If your interested in ordering or would like more info send Me an e-mail.

Frank
Psycho Bike Performance
suzukinos@aol.com




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MOTORHEAD
Administrator posted 12-10-2000 12:04 PM
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ALTERING YOUR SPRING PRLOAD WILL ALTER THE AMOUNT OF LOAD IT TAKES TO MAKE THE LOCK UPO INGAGE!
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AQUADIOS
NEW MEMBER posted 12-10-2000 01:44 PM
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Yo, Ozzie,
I know a guy that thought he could do it in the bike, welded it up and the first launch it detached, ended up with all the welding **** and flux, slag etc in the oil, dumb **** thing to do.

for sure Frank's stuff is top of the line, the schnitz mod is less expense and works for the street rider, but if you're a serious racer, talk with Frank and others.


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#2
G'day one and all,

The back torque limiter fitted to the Busa isn't what you would call the most effective piece of engineering. However it has it's uses, but I'm still to find them? Welding the limiter can be helpfull but a certin process need to be followed to achive the results required. First of all it must be remembered that this piece is case hardened so pre heat of the part must be done before welding is commenced or the weld will become brittle and fail. Oxy will do fine as long as you don't overheat the part, a slight browning is all that is required,then the weld process can be done. It would be best to set up a jig for welding this piece as you need to get it in the right position, and that is maxium engagement pressure.

A good mig or stick weld will be better tan a tig weld as the depth of the weld is more important than it's appearance. Once the back torque limiter is welded up a set of 5.00 mm spacers will need to be machined to adjust the static spring pressure. You will find that your clutch now responds as it should, and that is by the rider imput. If you are unable to do any of the suggested modifications please get someone who has experence at these modifications to do it for you.

I trust this helps out. If you have any further questions just post here and I'll answer as best as I can.

Spark Plugs Thursday night.

Regards Col
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#3
Thanks Col for all that info, though was more looking for any input to it's advantages/disadvantages to the mod, me just a busa layman. What's that option 2 by Frank Adams as illustrated?
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#4
Option 2 is a standard clutch hub i.e. no back torque limiter. Same as fitted to all GSXR's including the 1000.
The back torque limiter is one way of lowering the pull at the clutch lever and yet still have a clutch that can transmit 165+ hp. The down side of eliminating it is an increase in the pull at the lever.
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#5
G'day Volvi,

Sometimes I get too involved in what is in my head. To be honest most businesses sell too much clutch. By this I mean you only need enough clutch to elimate slippage, any more is overkill. Still it all depends on the power output of a given motor to decide on how much clutch is needed. as I have said the less the better as long as slip is not encounted.

Regards Col
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#6
hi jp,,

sorry to dwell on this, but i have many hand injuries from work and already feel the clutch lever firmness so how much harder is it approx. in perecentage terms with the btl mod and does it in any way effect engine braking when going down through the gears ie, does it have a tendency to allow locking the back wheel?

cheers
les
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#7
The pull at the lever is noticably stronger but a friend of mine (who has a welded up unit) still uses only one finger.
I've had a welded BTL for over twelve months and haven't managed to lock up the rear wheel on decel yet. A racing TL1000R (the BTLs are identical) with serious compression has never locked either. It's not a problem.
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#8
thanks jp for all the info on the btl mod, it has been very helpful and much appreciated,,

cheers
les
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#9
I had this mod performed by JP Les. I too had a altication with a stinking piece of shit car driver (not that I'm bitter mind you) that caused a fair bit of damage to my left hand, mainly two outer fingers & still, (two years later) have poor strength with that hand. I certinaly found it to be a fair bit heavier at the lever. It didnt worry me that much & the pay off of a smoother clutch take up was worth it. Having said that, I do stuff all city type riding which would be where it would cause you the most grief, so you may need to take that into account. Hope this has been of some help.
Cheers,
Wayne
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#10
Actually, I am finding all of this very enlightening. I found initially I wanted this mod, that mod, every mod, because if it is a mod, it must be good. But obviously not every mod is of benefit to everyone, and it is worth deciding what is of best value for any given rider and their style of riding.

Cheers, everyone.
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#11
thanks for your input wayne,

a mod like the btl makes you wonder why the manufacturer hadn't paid a lot more attention to this detail, also with the right clutch lever hydraulics (by design) the lever pull wouldn't be an issue at all, i wouldn't mind trying a busa with the mod before i proceed with it as the 'grief' factor has me a little concerned,,

cheers
les
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