(08-10-2010, 09:54am)sutur Wrote: How much of a difference in power would you guys say breaking in the bike hard (properly) vs breaking in the bike as per owners' manual would make uhm...before modification?
I'm curious about what is meant by "breaking in the bike hard (properly)".
The new Busa gets delivered tomorrow and this is the first time I've owned a new bike that needs to be broken in.
If there's another way I should be breaking it in other than as per the owners manual, I'd really like to hear about it.
i would say break it in per the manual mate , alot of people have opinions on how it all should be done but its not there bike , and you dont want to void the warrenty , best of luck with the new bike , dont forget to post up some pics for us to over
(04-10-2010, 08:06pm)garbo Wrote: I'll very rarely use the top end on my k8 (if ever) but drool over the 136ft/lb torque. Thats where the bus really rules. Mark
Well F&*%k me, had my 08 on the dyno last week and I was given a graph showing RW HP 174, give or take some, who cares.
The dude reckons that it was a pretty good result compared to other Gen 2 bikes he has dynoed.
So for those who think they are getting 200 RW HP with the additions of slip on's and filter I think some thing must be seriously wrong with the dyno they are using or a lot of drugs are being smoked
Dave
Hey Dave, What gear was your 174 RWHP done in? I've seen a couple of others around that number and they were done in 5th. Mine was done in 4th and got a bees nick over 185RWHP (with slip on Micron mufflers and a K&N filter). Cheers, Michael
I put my K9 on the Dyno in stock setup just with a power commander III in factory USA tune & a set of Race fit growlers & she pumped out 174rwhp but the torque was dipping in the guts. We discovered that I hadn't disconnected the O2 sensor that helped out the torque a little bit.
On the same day in was remapped, fitted with a K&N filter & she then pumped out 184rwhp & the torque is now a straight line. The difference on road is incredible.
On checking with a K8 that had the same set up except he had a set of yoshi slip on's his was good for 181rwhp. He then put a full yoshi 4-2-1 system on it & got 194rwhp
Mine had done 12,000klms & his 2,500klms (in his case pretty much all on the Dyno)
The only other difference was mine is black & his was blue
"We discovered that I hadn't disconnected the O2 sensor that helped out the torque a little bit"
On the dyno under full load it wouldn't have had any input as it would be in open loop situation.
(13-10-2010, 03:58pm)gravy Wrote: Hey guys, I've got a K8 with a yoshi R55 full system, PCIII with Rilusi custom tune and K&N, and on their dyno I got 171.4HP and 99.71. Reckon I might have to put it on a different dyno just so i feel better about those figures...haha. Still goes like the clappers so that's all that counts....
Gravy,
Your figures are spot on I reckon, mine was around 171 with map supplied by Brock, after another run and custom map installed was making around 174 +-, so to those who are saying they are getting around 200HP with out working the motor are full of you know what.
For the record my 08 bike has Brock 4-1 titanium system, PC111, K&N, velocity stacks, BP ultimate fuel used.
To put this issues to rest once and for all and prove that 200 rear wheel HP on essentially a standard bike is not possible I would be interested in arranging a dyno day in Perth.
who is up for it?
Dave
I'll participate in your study, where are you going to get it dynoed?
Bunbury? The Pattersons in Bunbury?
I'm off to a different shop in Perth just to prove that no two dyno's produce the same results, will post both dyno results soon.
Maybe this time Ill see the mythical 200 RWP
It appears reading previous reply's that all one needs to do is buy a cheap set of after market slip on cans for real HP gain, I might go the additional mile and buy some of those magnet things that clamp around the fuel lines as well for more HP.
Well that will probably be a waste of time given that even different tyre pressures will give a different result before you even start on atmospheric conditions for the day or the difference between the two dynos re calibration. Then factor in a dozen or so other factors that can also have effect on the end figures . You would really need to get the two dynos in the same room to get a back to back fair comparison. Then in saying all that, at the end of the day dyno's are not about the most Hp they can show ? (You can make them read anything you want just by fiddling the correction factor if bragging rights is all thats required) Their basically a tool that lets one see advantages gained by any mods performed and also a way of measuring and adjusting AFR ratios without doing 300KPH down the highway. A rolling road ........................ without radar.
As for 200 Hp out of a Busa with an unopened motor ............................. I've never seen it ................. close but no cigar here.
(02-11-2010, 04:30pm)fasterfaster Wrote: "We discovered that I hadn't disconnected the O2 sensor that helped out the torque a little bit"
On the dyno under full load it wouldn't have had any input as it would be in open loop situation.
Yeah I'm not a mechanic mate so I was only going off his waving finger in the Dyno room. When I asked what he was on about later I'm pretty sure he told me that the O2 sensor being hooked up with the power commander was screwing with the fueling as the ECU & power commander were fighting each other or something or other & dipping the torque. Not sure where in the Rev range that was but I thought in the middle somewhere. This was before I put the TRE in too which I'm now thinking of taking out again as I don't really need it for the street & it makes (in my case anyway) the decel a bit savage no matter how gentle I try to be.
If I heard correctly that low tyre pressures will result in lower rwhp too.
Dave, I wish I could but I dont have the $$$s right now. Go ahead with out me.
I heard that a clean chain will boost HP figures as will a well worn tyre. Dont know what the logic is behind the worn tyre. Anyone know if this is true? Maybe it has something to do with less rotating mass.
No trophies, no flowers, no flashbubs, no wine,
He is haunted by something he can not define.
The Distance, CAKE.
Its pretty simple go to the same dyno everytime you change something if you gain hp then you no the money was worth while. I dont why you would want to travel to different dynos just to have the wank factor on a piece of paper i spose as pete said a dynos a tunning aid simple as that.
05-11-2010, 07:16pm (This post was last modified: 05-11-2010, 07:32pm by garbo.)
(02-11-2010, 10:18pm)fasterfaster Wrote: Well that will probably be a waste of time given that even different tyre pressures will give a different result before you even start on atmospheric conditions for the day or the difference between the two dynos re calibration. Then factor in a dozen or so other factors that can also have effect on the end figures . You would really need to get the two dynos in the same room to get a back to back fair comparison. Then in saying all that, at the end of the day dyno's are not about the most Hp they can show ? (You can make them read anything you want just by fiddling the correction factor if bragging rights is all thats required) Their basically a tool that lets one see advantages gained by any mods performed and also a way of measuring and adjusting AFR ratios without doing 300KPH down the highway. A rolling road ........................ without radar.
As for 200 Hp out of a Busa with an unopened motor ............................. I've never seen it ................. close but no cigar here.
(05-11-2010, 08:37pm)CeeJay07 Wrote: Jeezuz H.Christ Garbo....that's pretty impressive figures you got there....we should meet up for a drink & smoke one day.
U bet mate. As soon as this fkn rain gives up. Hope to go for a loop on sunday if it aint floggin down. Will post a meet and time if so.
mark
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