8sec on motor?
#46
10,000 shift light means with reflexes you actually shift around 10200.This is 9800 real rpm which is pretty much on the point of peak power.different bikes tend to be 9700-9900.
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#47
0h so changing at 11,000 (whatever redline is) isnt the quickest way to go down the quarter mile?
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#48
Probably not
[Image: zzzCustom.jpg]
"par excellence"
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#49
That depends if i,m racing you or not.If so rev it to redline and enjoy the look of my first generation busas taillight WAAYY OFF IN THE DISTANCE.IF you look up you may even be able to tell what time i did.Lol3Based on datalogging and et and mph the ideal shift rpm was found for these bikes.
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#50
Quote:0h so changing at 11,000 (whatever redline is) isnt the quickest way to go down the quarter mile?
Nemesis on a street / mostly stock Busa peak power is around 9600/9700
With the std busa taco is about 200rpm out, believe it or not you should be changing at around at 10,000
With a shift light fitted it give you the real reading,
Unless you have it tuned to peak power at 11,000rpm it is costing you heaps of time.
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#51
how much time you recon id shave off changing at 10k?ive been waiting untill about 10500-10600 to change.
Regards

Dan
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#52
Nemisis,

Work out whats best for you, as thats the only way you'll learn.

It's ok to try things that someone else suggests but in the end your the guy on the bike and what works for you may not work for someone else.

I personally rev the crap out of it work out were the bike cuts out and change just before that, on the tacho it shows 11,500 at cutout so 11,250 is my shift point.

Forget about real rpm and tacho rpm it's all crap, work out the shift point with your tacho or shift light, and stick to it, consistancy is the name of the game, if the tacho is out too bad your only using it for a go/nogo gauge anyway.
I use the tacho, I find the stock busa revs out too slowly to need a shift light.

In my case if I don't change at (an indicated) 11,250, the other guy's who run 145mph will drive around me at the 1000', but when I hold it all the way to 11,250 then they dont!

Just someone else's opinion, everyone got one!

Leonard.Biker
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#53
get out there and race is the motto.IF its a night meet its little or no time off work,a great social gathering and gives you your speed fix for the week.So it helps you keep your licence as well.you won,t go consistently fast though without lots of practice as the best setup or advise is wasted without well trained motorskills.the stuff you do right ,without thinking needs to be burned into your memory card.
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#54
So leonard do you hold it to the indicated 11250 for all changes or jsut hold to that in last while your crossing the line? i found i got my best mph changing at an indicated 10500-10600 and then hold it flat at the end and i just bounce of the limiter as at the back end of the traps having said that so far im onyl at a 10.62@133.8mph so im crossing at the top of third. bare in mind before people star laughing at my mhp that im about 145kg with my gear on and bike is stock apart from a home made 4-1 and lowered and straped. should i be getting more mph out of her?
Regards

Dan
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#55
Hey Dan,

11,250 every gear, especially 1st, run thur in 4th gear as close to the limiter as possible.

Gearing 16,42 anything else won't 60 hard enough, I want to try a 43 and see what happens.

My mph is 139 to a best of 142 with 140 being average, at 90kg without gear.

133 is ok, depends on how may revs, gearing etc.

Heavier guys need lower gearing, and you'll still find it harder to et and mph than the light guys, especially on basically stock busa's.

Leonard.Biker
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#56
im running stock gearing at the moment but will change to a 17/42 for a start the 42 is sitting there jsut needs me to stop being lazy. at the moment straped and 2 inch down at the back i run a 1.81 60ft as my best so i need to fix that.
Regards

Dan
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#57
oh and the most worthwhile mod ill be doing is going to the gym and dieting hahhahaha i figure how much id save on food from eating less i could do a turbo hahahaha
Regards

Dan
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#58
As the featherweight pro riders ALWAYS get the fastest times i think et,s should be non descriminatory to bigger guys or lighter guys.There (as i have suggested before) should be an index started for total bike and rider weight combinations.For example my total weight was 325kg with an et of 9.68.For every 10 kg greater than that add a tenth.For example guidos bike is approx 240kg and he is approx 135kg.375kg total =10.18.If terry(9.6 zx10 rider) was riding my bike at approx 70kg suited his negative index would mean he would have to do a 9.44 as an adjusted equivalent.For some they feel the only way to go faster is to spend but if true rider skill was to be measured with the above index et versus mph is something that could be used an incentive on bike nights as a prizemoney parameter like 60ft and reaction time.On that basis i,ve got some homework to do.Can,t react and can,t launch yet.ASK simmo,if redlighting incured 3 points i,d lose my licence every wednesday night.Lol3
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#59
Don't be so hard on yourself Glen you got one green light last week Nerd
Quote:Can,t react and can,t launch yet

Don't know about that you got a 1.6 last week,
practice practice practice is what its all about Guys
and a bit of tuning with a Veypor can't hurt can it Glen...............
I'm onto you now all I have to do now is get the bloody thing back Egyptian
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#60
just to ad to this discussion when i was racing my 02 i had a dyno printout of what the motor was doing and by the way of the printout it was saying that my peak power was at 9700 rpm and after that it was actually losing power so I was changing at around the 11000 mark before that and changed my changes to around the 9700-10000 and my times improved I guess finding where your bike makes it power is the key I did find by sort of short shifting i did have to get 5th gear just before the line where i was crossing in the top of 4th before that another gear change also means a lil loss in ET it is a fine line that we try and concor

Just my 2c do with it what you will
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